Banda Neira - Setting Foot on the Spice Islands

They may be small (c. 66 square miles), but the Banda Islands have a very prominent position in world history through the spice trade, they were the origin of nutmeg and mace. These highly prized spices, and the desire to control and monopolise trading in them, drove multiple eras of European colonisation and conflict in the islands (Portuguese, then Dutch, then British then back to Dutch) with some horrifying historical episodes along the way.

Far further back than the 16th century start of European colonisation, Chinese and Indian literature also describes active trade with the islands (including for items from elsewhere in the region including cloves and bird of paradise feathers). These islands have been active trading posts for a very long time.

Today the islands invite exploration with a distinctive and intriguing mix of colonial architecture, history and culture in addition to the enjoyable local food and hospitality. Particularly notable are the Kora Kora canoes which are a specific cultural feature of the Maluku Province.

The natural environment is just as impressive as the history of the islands with the thickly jungled slopes of active volcano Gunung Api looming over the nearby islands and very impressive coral gardens growing right up to the waterline of the lava flows from the 1988 eruption. Gunung Api is particularly famous for its large population of sea snakes that on occasion hunt in packs.

A very enjoyable visit for us, and a parting feeling that there's plenty more to discover here, both above and below the surface...

As with other 2024 posts, all underwater and most above water pictures are with an iPhone rather than DSLR.

Arrival in the Banda Islands was atmospheric as the early morning mist and clouds cleared away to reveal the volcanic slopes of Gunung Api (literally translated as 'Fire Mountain') and surrounding islands.

The large Kora Kora canoes that sometimes appear to 'race' vessels through the island channel and take part in cultural events are a specific cultural feature of some of the islands in Maluku Province and were formerly significant in both raiding and defense of islands.

Mosques pass by in the channel on the way in to the port.

Moving beyond the harbour side buildings into town the historical elements seem to be everywhere, rusting cannons by the side of the road, the house of the British captain who captured Fort Belgica (and the islands themselves) from the Dutch in 1810.

Walking up to Fort Belgica towards the end of the day can provide some welcome breeze as well as impressive panoramic views, and a chance to have a nosy peek at some people's vegetable patches - rich volcanic soil.

The beatiful colonial architecture of the Cilu Bintang Estate is an inviting place to stay and soak in the views and culture, and of course take a closer look at the lifecycle of the nutmeg, from flower all the way to dried spice. The vivid red 'skin' around the nutmeg is the fresh form of the spice we know as mace.

The "VOC" initials in this antique plate refer to Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie, the Dutch East India Company.

Coming back to the coast in the heat of the day the fresh lava flows may look barren, but just below the water surface there is a profusion of life.

The gardens of hard and soft corals in the shallows extend right up to the surface.

Further out, schools of triggerfish and large barrel sponges can be found.

We think this egg ribbon may be from a Spanish Dancer nudibranch (Hexabranchus sanguineus) but it is difficult to know for sure. The Spanish Dancer consumes sponges in the Halichondriidae family, passing the toxins in the sponge onto the eggs as a defence.

Relaxing after snorkelling or diving the reefs, an enjoyable evening can be spent watching local cultural displays and dances accompanied by the gong chimes of the local totobuang music.